Title:Signatures of accretion: Pa alpha emission in HD 100546 Abstract: Pa alpha is one of the intrinsically most valuable diagnostics of accretion in YSOs. However, it is based in a wavelength region (1.875 microns) which is heavily affected by absorption from water vapour in the earth''s atmosphere and thus generally only observed from space. We have taken advantage of the recent installation of a dedicated Particulate Water Vapour (PWV) monitor on Paranal observatory to use the CRIRES instrument at the VLT to observe the Pa alpha line in the Herbig Be star HD 100546 during an episode of particularly low PWV conditions, normally only present at much higher altitude sites. This constitutes the first detection of this line from the ground. We use the Pa alpha line to determine the accretion parameters of HD 100546 and present a comparison of this novel method to measure accretion with other methods.